Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, and is an autonomous region of Italy. It is actually closer to Tunisia than to Italy, and has a rich and varied history. It is mostly a mountainous inland, but being an island, it has approximately 1900 kilometers of high rocky coastline.  Its capital is Cagliari, a city of  150,00 population which is located on the southern coast of the island. Despite having many of the same attributes of its larger neighbor to the southeast, Sicily, (great weather, long coast line, significant archaeological and historic ruins), it doesn't do well in any comparison. I hate to say it, but Sardinia was a bit of a disappointment for us.



For years, Alisa's family in Italy has been encouraging us to visit this Mediterranean island,  and we have been talking about it for years, so when the right opportunity came up, we went. Sardinia is well known as one of the outstanding summer vacation spots of Europe, and its Emerald Coast (Costa Smeralda), built by the Aga Khan in the 1960's is famous as a glitzy magnet for the world's rich and famous. However, we are not interested in glitzy coastal resorts. We love Italy, and have visited many times. We are interested in Italian life and culture, pasta, wine, and we often visit out of season and out of the way places.


That was the basis for this visit to Sardinia. We went in mid October (end of the season), and visited much of the island, but not the "Emerald Coast". Click on the map of the island to the right in order to see a full sized map. The bases we used are circled in blue (Cagliari, Cabras and Alghero). Nuoro is also circled in blue, but we only visited there and it wasn't a base. Circled in red in the upper right corner is the Emerald Coast, where we did not visit.
There are only 3 decent airports on the island and they are also noted on the map. We flew into Cagliari, and out of Alghero, a very convenient arrangement as the driving distance between them is about 250 KM. We spent 4 nights in Cagliari, the island's capital and largest city, then drove to Cabras for one night, and then drove through the mountains, (Nuoro province) and on to Alghero, where we also spent 4 nights. 

Most of the island appears to be a neglected region of Italy (an opinion voiced by many locals), and more backward than we expected. The road system is from the 60's (1960's, not 1860's) and we were particularly surprised by the fact that by the end of October, everything shuts down, except in the larger cities (and there aren't many of those). This surprised us because the island has great sunny weather almost all year, but here we were at the end of October, looking for restaurants for lunch. In short, the tourist season runs only from May to  October, and then everybody lays back and waits for next year. We even discovered that only a few days after our departure, most flights to Alghero airport from Europe were ended for the winter.




Now that I've gotten through the negative stuff, I want to say that there was plenty we enjoyed during our visit to Sardinia. There's lots of beautiful scenery, delicious food, wonderful restaurants (at least in the big cities), great wine, and friendly people. 




Cagliari, as noted above, is Sardinia's capital and largest city. It has a large active port and reminded us a little of Palermo (Sicily) - noisy, gritty, a real working class town. The city has a population of about 150,000, and has a very unusual topography. There is a historic part of town called the Marina which is the area nearest the port, and the real old town, called the Castello, which is up on a hill and is quite a climb. Actually you can get there by several ways - walking up about 200 steps via the Bastione di Saint Remy (the best known monument of Cagliari), using an elevator about 100 meters from this monument, walking up some very steep streets, or driving up.


Driving up there is not recommended as the streets are tiny and harrowing and it's impossible to find any parking. By climbing the steps (150?) of the monument, you arrive at the beautiful "Constitution Plaza" (picture at the top of this page) with wonderful views in every direction. Just for the views, this is a must see in Cagliari. I went up top 3 different times, one by each mode of transportation. Alisa wanted no part of it, but I showed it to her via car and that's when I found out how treacherous the streets are up in the Castello. There are a couple of bars and nightclubs up on top and they boast great views. To the right is a picture of the beautiful Cathedral of Santa Maria which is also located up in the old town. It's a 13th century cathedral with an underground crypt which holds 179 niches containing relics of Cagliari's martyrs.




We stayed in a lovely 4 star hotel called Regina Margherita, which is located on a street of the same name and which connects between the marina area and the Bastione de Saint Remy. That means that it was located on a pretty steep street. Turn right and go downhill to the Marina, or turn left and trek uphill in the direction of Saint Remy. The hotel also has its own underground secure parking. It's tight, but navigable. The only problem was that there was no elevator from the parking up to the lobby - just a long flight of stairs. The hotel was very good and the location (despite the hill) was excellent.


When we got to our room in the hotel, we found a box with 3 bottles of wine from the Pala winery, located not far from Cagliari. It was not a gift from the hotel, but rather from the winery. I had reserved a tour at the winery on our second day in Cagliari, and at the last moment, the winery had to cancel due to the burden of the harvest. Pala is one of the stars in the wine industry in southern Sardinia, and I was in touch via email with Elizabeta Pala. I responded to the email cancellation by Elizabeta with understanding and a question about where to find their wines, and she responded by asking me at what hotel we would be staying so that she could send me some wine. And, as she wrote, she sent 3 bottles of Vermentino, the premier white wine produced in Sardinia. I have dealt with lots of wineries, but this was the nicest gesture I have ever come across.



While in Cagliari, we made 2 trips outside of Cagliari. On one day we drove north to Dolianova, a small sleepy town about 25 KM north of Cagliari in order to visit a winery called Argiolas. Actually, Argiolas is in Serdiana, which is the town right next to Dolianova, but compared to Serdiana, Dolianova is a metropolis. So, we strolled around Dolianova for a while and then made our way to Argiolas at the appointed hour. Our guide was Giulia, who spoke excellent English and was very informative. She also provided us with a very elegant tasting. Argiolas is now one of the biggest wineries in Sardinia, and is famous for its premium wine called Turriga. We bought grappa made from Turriga, which Alisa says is one of the best she has ever had.



The other trip we made was to Pula, a beach resort about 35 KM south of Cagliari. Pula is famous for the  ancient site of Nora which is Sardinia’s most impressive Carthaginian and Roman ruins, occupying a spit of land jutting into the sea. The town also reputedly has an active night life scene with many bars. We weren't interested in visiting Nora, but we did visit the beach (shown to the left) and found it quite deserted despite it being a hot sunny day with temperatures above 25 ͦ C. We found a nice bar/restaurant for lunch in the center of town called "S'incontru". We were pleasantly surprised as the place had a great menu and the food was very good and super fresh. We had a green salad, antipasti, and a seafood salad. It was one of the best lunches we had outside of Cagliari or Alghero. To the right is a picture of this bar in the town center.



We ate at several restaurants in Cagliari worth describing. There were also a couple not worth describing, and I won't mention them. The first was the Antica Cagliari. It is located in the Marina area of the city, and there must be at least 50 or a 100 restaurants there. Most look pretty similar, and it was difficult to choose one for our first meal in Sardinia. It was recommended to us by lady who ran a gift shop not far away. I mention this because the shop had a wonderful selection of local products. The name of it was Delizie Sardegna, and after checking out the web site, I see that they sell online and ship outside of Italy.



In any case, Antica Cagliari looked like most of the restaurants in the Marina area, but we were pleasantly surprised. Here we had several firsts for our visit to Sardinia - our first Sardinian wine (Vermentino), our  first bottarga dish (dried fish roe, a specialty on Sardinia - more about this later), our first taste of the amazingly fresh fish of the island, our first Sardinian flat bread (carasau) and our first Sardinian grappa. They had 11 different grappas on the menu and we tried 2 which were excellent. We had no idea that they were so into grappa on Sardinia! To the left is Alisa enjoying the carasau, and to the right is one of the most interesting dishes of the entire trip. It's a salad of bottarga mixed with thin strips of celery. It was excellent and we are making it at home now with the bottarga we bought in Sardinia. Below are the other restaurants we ate at in Cagliari..



INU Sardinian Wine Bar: On Tripadvisor, I saw INU called the best wine bar in Cagliari. Maybe it is, I don't know. I saw quite a few but only checked out INU. We had a light meal here. It was nice, very informal, with a very nice selection of cheeses and meats. On the other hand, I was disappointed by the wine selection - not too many and not much choice - not what I expected from the best wine bar in Cagliari.


Hostaria Sa Osa: Sa Osa doesn't have a home page - just a facebook page. We ate here primarily because of the rave reviews on Tripadvisor. It was nice, but much less than we expected. Let's just say that "Sa Osa" was just "aaah, so so". We had lunch here. The food was fine but the service was a bit amateurish and they served us white wine which wasn't as cold as it should have been. That didn't bother me, but they didn't even have any ice to put it into. The waiter was nice and kept it in their refrigerator (the cold one) and served us when he remembered to. The meal was good, but not memorable. Antica Cagliari, which is located in the same area was far better. To the right is a great picture of the carasau, the wafer like local bread we had at Sa Osa.



Regarding the carasau, it is sometimes called Sardinian music paper bread, and is served in almost all restaurants in Sardinia, generally along with regular bread. It is crisp and thin and very tasty. You can buy it online from this site, or read about its history on this site or find a recipe for it on this site if you feel like making some. We were told that if kept dry, it will last in its crispy pristine state for up to a year. We bought a package and we are going to serve it in the coming days.



Saint Remy: This restaurant is located about 100 meters uphill from our hotel, not far from the Bastione di Saint Remy (hence the name). It serves "upscale" Italian food and was one of the best restaurants we ate in on this trip. Everything here was excellent, and the carasau was one of the best we had anywhere. Marino, the host (and probably the owner), was very entertaining and helped us order exactly the dishes that perfectly suited our tastes. What I liked about this place was that the front door was kept locked and visitors had to ring a bell to get in. This prevented the ubiquitous rose sellers from wandering around the restaurant making everybody feel uncomfortable for not buying a rose. To the left is an inside view of this lovely restaurant, and to the right is my wonderful dish of sea bass, cherry tomatoes, potatoes and a red sauce. 




Luigi Pomata: This restaurant was also about 100 meters from the hotel, but in the other direction, that is, downhill. It's more informal than Saint Remy, but the food was just as good. The chef and owner Luigi Pomata himself, served us and everywhere we looked he was taking orders, serving food, or just chatting with the guests. His specialty is aged tuna. My main dish was tuna belly tenderloin served with aromatic rice. The tuna was perfect and melted in my mouth. Picture to the right. For our appetizer, we had what he called "carpaccio". It was 12 pieces of different fish and shrimp served Carpaccio style. It was also delicious and is pictured to the left. Luigi also sold his aged tuna in cans of about 250 grams. We bought one (and for only 30 Euros)! We ate it at home and it was very very good. The same tuna was also on the menu, and is served after being heated in the can! (At least that's what I understood from Luigi.)



We visited Poetta beach which is the number 1 beach in Cagliari. We weren't overly impressed. It's located about 5 KM from the center of town, it's kind of scruffy, and we didn't see much in the way of places to get something to drink or eat. There were no lifeguards in sight, although this is due to the fact that the season is over in October, but we didn't see any lifeguard stations either. We also visited a lovely park connected to the municipal art museum. The only name I found for this park was the "Public gardens and Art Museum". In any case, it was a beautiful day and and a beautiful park, and lots of people were there for a day out with the family. Picture to the right.



On Sunday, we visited the St. Elia market. It was in the seediest part of town and the whole thing looked very unappetizing. So, we drove back into town and found, quite by accident, an artist's fair in Piazza del Carmine. There were about 20 or so artists displaying their work. We chatted with several and bought a small piece from an artist called Vincenzo Manca. We fell in love with his colorful paintings. He told us how tough it was for an artist to make a living in Sardinia. His work is very vivid and full of color and motion, and you can see some of it on his facebook page here.



The day we left Cagliari was a busy day. We drove about 1.5 hours to the tiny town of Cabras, where we visited Tharros, probably the best known Roman ruin in Sardinia, and after lunch, the Contini Winery. Cabras was the most convenient spot for these activities, as it is the closest town to Tharros, and the Contini winery is located right in town. The nearest "big" city to Cabras is Oristano with a population of about 35,000, but we had "important" things to do and see in Cabras, so that's where we stayed overnight.





Cabras is well known for several things - it is the closest town to Tharros, it has the biggest mullet growing station in Sardinia, it has several wineries in or near the town, and it is THE capital for producing bottarga in all the world. What's bottarga? It is the salted, pressed and dried roe of gray mullet (muggine in Italian). It is a delicacy and has been cherished for thousands of years. The Romans and even the Phoenicians loved it. It is very popular in Italy, and the number one producer is - (you guessed it) - Sardinia, and the center for Sardinian production is - (again, I bet you guessed it) - Cabras. Good bottarga is very expensive, and there is a vast difference in quality between the good stuff and the best stuff. It is mainly used as a condiment to go with all kinds of dishes and we love it. We bought directly from a producer where it cost about 100 Euros per kilo. On line it sells for up to 200 Euros per kilo! It's also ground and sold as a coarse powder. To the left are some bottarga links and to the right is what bottarga looks like.




Cabras is not much of a town. Various sources say that the population is 9000 which I find hard to believe. It is really a drab place (see me to the left), although its proximity to Tharros and the beaches of the Sinis Peninsula apparently make it an attractive place to sleep. There are several B&B's (the closest hotel is in Oristano), all with very good reviews on the internet, and a few very simple restaurants.   We had lunch at one of these simple restaurants and were pleasantly surprised.



It's called "de Attilio in Paese", and it was a 2 minute walk from our B&B. For lunch there, I had the best mullet I have ever had anywhere. I mentioned above that Cabras has the biggest mullet station in Italy, so the fish is absolutely fresh and they know how to cook it. Alisa had home made pasta with bottarga and that was good too. To the upper right is a picture of the artwork on the walls of this restaurant, and to the lower right is a picture of this restaurant from the outside. The fat gentleman beckoning us to come and eat there is one of the owners. 



For dinner, we ate in our B&B, "Sa Cottilla". This is one of several B&B's in Cabras. The outside looks like the picture to the above left, but the inside is a quiet and cozy oasis of tranquility, as can be seen in the picture directly to the left. The hosts are Antonio & Elena, and they really do a good job of making their guests feel at home. They were very helpful and we enjoyed the stay. The room is basic, but the garden was lovely. Back to dinner - we bought some veggies, cheese and ham and had one of the great bottles of Vermentino we were given by Elizabeta Pala, and dined in the garden. Breakfast at the B&B was mostly sweets and cakes, which is common in Italian B&B's, but we brought our leftovers from dinner and had a breakfast exactly to our liking.





Tharros is a perfect example of what disappointed us about Sardinia. It is a world class Roman ruin located in an absolutely beautiful setting - at the tip of the Sinis Peninsula, about 15 KM from Cabras. We visited on October 20 which was a beautiful sunny day with temperatures in the high 20's (C). There weren't many tourists, but we were far from alone. There are 2 parts to the site  which are 1-2 kilometers apart. Elena at the B&B had told us that there is an internal "shuttle" which would take us from one part of the site to the other. We discovered that the shuttle had been shut down the day before we visited.



At the entrance was a ticket booth, a modest snack bar/restaurant, and a gift store. We bought tickets at the ticket booth, but the snack bar was closed. Actually it was open, just not operating. We tried, but couldn't even buy a bottle of water. It was a hot day, and Alisa bought a photo book about Sardinia in the gift shop (open), and then sat in the shade. I climbed up the steep path to the "tower", where I took the pictures to the left and right. To the right is a shot of the entry "complex" where we couldn't buy a bottle of water. To summarize, this is a world class archeological and historical site, which is almost completely shut down in the middle of October.




After our frustrating visit to Tharros, we returned to Cabras for lunch and after an afternoon nap, we visited Contini winery. It was another pleasant visit where we were treated with the utmost respect and where we tasted as many wines as we wanted to. This is the winery that makes a very interesting and unique blend of Vernaccia and Vermentino called Karmis, which we drank in a restaurant somewhere and also took a bottle home. The winery which is a medium sized Sardinian winery, was founded in 1898 by family patriarch Salvatore Contini and has remained in Contini family hands to the present. To the left and rights are shots of the tasting room.




We left Cabras after breakfast and headed into the mountains, the region known as "old Sardinia". We drove into Nuoro province and specifically to the wine region surrounding the town of Oliena. There are several towns in this area and many wineries. Towns to visit in this area include Orgosolo, Atzara, & Mamoiada. On the other hand, these are very small towns with not much to visit besides the wineries and the views. We had an appointment with Cantina Gostolai just outside of Oliena. The winery is situated in the industrial area of Oliena, and is clearly a family winery without pretensions. We were greeted by Angelo, the son of the founder. We had a very informative chat with him and tasted some of the great wines they make. Here we discovered that in this area, the cannonau is called "nepente", although it's the same grape.




We checked out Oliena, and decided that our best bet for lunch would be Nuoro, the biggest town in the area. Nuoro has a population of around 37,000 and we thought we would be able to find a normal restaurant for lunch. Wrong again! We parked right in the center of town, started walking and asking for restaurants. All we found were bars and "cafeterias".  A cafeteria in this area is a simple snack bar or cafe which serves a few items to eat. To the left is what we had for lunch. It was called pizza, but it was pretty sad. It was mostly bread with a bit of cheese and tomato sauce. Very disappointing.




After lunch, we continued our journey to Alghero. It was a long drive of over 2 hours as we were driving "against the grain" of the mountains and roads. The roads were mostly narrow and windy, and we made it to Alghero, tired and hungry!



Alghero is a lovely town with a population of around 45,000. It seems like it's bigger than that, and it is a popular tourist destination. It has a pronounced Spanish flavor as the Catalans (Spain) ruled here for quite a while. It has a lovely waterfront with a long promenade and an impressive marina.


In Alghero, we stayed at the DomoMea Hotel. This 4 star hotel is located about a 10-15 minute walk from the marina area and has limited secured parking available in a parking lot just a few steps away. The hotel was just fine, and on arrival, we got an upgrade. We were put into a superior room which was nice and large and on the top floor with direct access to the rooftop pool (which we didn't use). Breakfast was fine and the staff was always helpful and available.


On our first full day in Alghero, we drove into the hills of Sassari (Sassari province's largest town) to visit the Cherchi winery. To say that Cherchi is in the boondocks would be an understatement. At one point, we were 10 feet from the winery gate and still couldn't find it. In the end we did find it and had a delightful visit. To the right is a picture of the tasting room and store which was only recently opened. That was part of the reason why it was hard to find. We were hosted by a family member and enjoyed the visit.



On our second day in Alghero, we drove south along the beautiful shore road in the direction of Bosa. The road is very windy, and there are no stops along the way. There were a few (very few) places to pullover and park, but nowhere to stop and have a cup of coffee or take a bathroom break (we used the roadside). This is at least a 2 hour drive (all the way to Bosa) and in the middle, we decided to turn around and return to Alghero. It was a beautiful drive, but tiring with nowhere to stop for some rest and refreshment. Here's a nice picture to the right.



Upon returning to Alghero, we went and ate lunch at what turned out to be one of our favorite places for lunch - the Boqueria restaurant in the city market. We ate lunch there twice. This restaurant was great with only the freshest fish and seafood straight from the market vendors.  They cooked on an open coal fired grill and everything was delicious. They even had a great selection of wine. We had (2 different lunches) fresh oysters, grilled mullet, grilled shrimp, and fried calamari. At lunchtime, when most stores close (around 1-2 PM), the place was mobbed and there was a waiting line to sit down. That's when the service got reeeeal slow. You can see the the kitchen, grill and display case in the picture to the right. For more pictures, see their facebook page.




We developed a routine during our days in Alghero - after breakfast, take a drive to visit some lovely place, but hurry back to Alghero in time for lunch, as there were so few possibilities outside of the city. The day we visited Castelsardo is a good example. Castelsardo is located about 70 KM northeast of Alghero and the ride takes more than an hour. Castelsardo is beautiful and very striking, located around the base of a small mountain on the coast north of Sassari. See the picture to the left.


  The entire area around Castelsardo invites superlatives, the sea, the mountains, the marina, but here we were in the middle of October in this beautiful place and couldn't find a place for lunch. (Because of the long drive, we couldn't get back to Alghero for lunch in time on that day.) So, we just headed west  along the beach road (in the general direction of Alghero) and in the little tiny town of Lu Bagnu we came across a bar where we could have lunch. The bar was called "Papillon" and it looked like it might be a lively place at night. As for lunch, this time we got lucky, as the pasta was fresh and the meal was simple but tasty.  




On the way to Castelsardo, we drove the route the GPS recommended, that is, the shortest route and it took us by Sassari, and through the mountains. On the way we passed a very picturesque town called Sennori. This town seemed to be an interesting place, it had great views of the sea, and it was full of roadside statuary. We stopped long enough for a few pictures. To the left is a nice example of the statues and the view.  

For our only other venture outside of Alghero, we drove to Capo Caccia, a narrow strip of land across the bay from Alghero. This turned out to be the most beautiful area we visited and the drive was a tranquil pleasure. To the right is a picture of Alisa stretching her legs next to our car on this isolated peninsula.



On the way back from Capo Caccia, we visited several places. One was Fertilia, a tiny town just outside of Alghero and whose name the local Alghero airport uses. There's not much to this town, but it does have a few beaches, the airport, and a beautiful seacoast. Picture to the left. We also visited the Sella & Mosca winery. Didn't taste any wine here, we just admired the incredible grounds. Sella & Mosca is the biggest winery in Sardinia, and its grounds are very impressive. To the right is a picture of the store.





The other place which we (almost) visited was the Nuraghe Palmavera, located on the road between Alghero and the Capo Caccia peninsula. There are about 7000 examples of Nuraghi on Sardinia. They are stone structures, thought to be defensive towers in the shape of truncated cones with interior rooms and which were apparently built by a tribal civilization which lived in the area 5000 years ago. The best known and most impressive of these ruins is located near the village of Barumini, which is about 60 KM from Cagliari. We didn't visit Barumini. On the other hand, we did (kind of) visit the Palmavera Nuraghe which is very accessible as it is right on the roadside a few kilometers from Alghero. We stopped at the gate and checked it out from the road through the tired and ratty wire fence. The site looked pretty shabby, and it was close to its lunchtime closing, so we got a look and then continued on our way.


As for restaurants, we didn't eat only at the market. Below are a few notable restaurants we ate at in Alghero.



Paco: We had our first dinner in Alghero here at Paco's, which is located on the edge of the historic center in Largo San Francesco.  We had a 4 course seafood dinner here. The first course was a 3-tiered tower of 7 different appetizers (shown to the left). It was very original and very tasty. Guy, the host, was very congenial and friendly and spoke excellent English. This was followed by black (fresh) pasta with swordfish, then bream with potatoes in a caper sauce, and panna cotta for dessert. They made a salad for Alisa who can't eat panna cotta. We had a Cherchi Vermentino to wash it all down. All in all, it was a very nice meal.


Osteria Barcellonetta: We had dinner here, after it was recommended by the hotel staff several times. It is a small family restaurant located in the heart of the historic center, with good simple and authentic dishes.  We had fish in a spicy tomato sauce, apparently a standard here. It's called "la cassola" and each restaurant that served it had its version. Alisa had had salad and orrechietti (Puglian style pasta in the shape of ears) with clams, olives and broccoli (picture to the right). I had fettuccini with seafood. Everything was very nice and simple. The most interesting thing about the restaurant was the fact that the kitchen was located on the other side of the narrow street from the restaurant.



Teatro: (no web page) This restaurant is located in the heart of the historic center near the Piazza del Teatro, ands right next to the Romani restaurant which I describe below. This is one of the few restaurants we found in Alghero which served meat, as well as fish. The fish display in the window was very impressive and the restaurant staff encouraged us to eat there, together with a 10% discount coupon. (This is permanently on their business card, so I would assume that the 10% discount is is already priced into the menu.) The menu (both meat and fish) looked interesting, so we decided to try it. The atmosphere is supposed to be "upscale" but it came off as pretentious (the owner replaced our water bottle because the label was ripped). The service was just OK, as we could feel that the waiter was trying to get us to order what he wanted us to order. The food prices were high, and the wine prices were much higher than in other comparable restaurants. The food was good, but not great. I had red snapper, which was delicious but a touch overcooked. Alisa had a shrimp dish, but the accompanying potatoes came out late and weren't hot. In short, unless you really want to eat meat, go elsewhere. In fact, go to Romani, the restaurant right next door, which became our favorite restaurant in Sardinia. I do have to say that the restaurant is beautiful, but the best thing that happened here was that Alisa discovered "Grappa di Amarone", which has become her favorite grappa. Sample to the right.




Trattoria la Romani: As I mentioned above, this restaurant became our favorite and we ate here twice, once for dinner, and once for our "farewell to Sardinia" lunch. Romani was on my short list of restaurants to check out, which we did on our first stroll around the historic center. As soon as I saw the menu, I made a reservation. They had "porcetto" on the menu, and they made it fresh every morning and served it at around 830 in the evening. What is porcetto? (There are a variety of various spelling possibilities.) It is roast suckling pig and it is one of the iconic trademark dishes of Sardinia. I knew about it and wanted to try it, but couldn't find it anywhere. Finally, here it was and on the menu of a restaurant we wanted to eat at.



Romani is a family restaurant (like most in Sardinia), but this one was special. The atmosphere was warm, cheery, friendly, and it was packed every evening we came by. Fortunately, we had made a reservation, and I had my porcetto, which was superb.  Everything was excellent - the porcetto, the fresh pasta with bottarga and swordfish, and the best carasau we had anywhere. The people were lovely, and we decided to eat there again, which we did, on our final day in Sardinia. At lunch on that last day we had eel, tagliatelli with mushrooms, and a fish called "capone" (scorpion fish). The people who served us were Gigi (the boss), Vittoria (his sister-in-law), and Sarah (not sure of the family connection). Everybody was great and we loved this restaurant.



As for the carasau, we asked for and got the name of the supplier (La Cambusa) and went  there the next day and bought a box of carasau (and a few other things). This store (just off Piazza Civica in the historic center) has a wonderful selection of high quality Sardinian food specialties.


Alghero was a pleasant city to stroll in. The historic area is full of stores and restaurants and the marina area is very photogenic. On our last day there, the weather was absolutely perfect and that's what we did - strolled around with lunch at Romani. We had an evening flight so we had most of the day to wander. The architecture is decidedly Spanish influenced, and the city is dotted with so called "Spanish Towers". Below are the best pictures from this day.







Sardinia food
The food and cuisine of sardinia
Gallura and its cuisine
(where we didn't visit)
A guide to Italian food, wine, and culture
(great selection of food pictures)
(a great site for general info on Sardinia)
Charming Sardinia
Welcome to Sardinia
Hither & Thither
(a travelogue of someone else's visit to Sardinia)
Exploring Sardinia


This is a page from our site "Travels with Steve & Alisa".  It describes one of the many trips we have made together.  We've built these pages not just to describe our trips, but to help other travelers if we can.  Please use the information we've provided freely, and let us know if you have any questions we might be able to answer about your own planned trip, or just let us know if we have helped you. Or perhaps you have some information we could add to the site. Visit our home page using the link to the right.                 

Enjoy your next trip!!                         ~Steve & Alisa~


LAST UPDATED: December 22, 2014