|
||||||||||||||||
A CRUISE ON THE DANUBE, WITH VISITS TO BUDAPEST & BUCHAREST | ||||||||||||||||
JUNE, 2018 |
||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||
CRUISING THE IRON GATE ON THE DANUBE ABOVE: MONASTERY MRCONIA |
||||||||||||||||
Most of our travel is independent travel, with lots of detailed planning, and driving by me, but every now and then, we decide to take a cruise. As the old Greyhound Bus commercial said; "Take Greyhound, and leave the driving to us." On a cruise, somebody else does the driving, and the planning, and the hotel comes along with you. It's a refreshing change. This cruise also took us to places we would probably never get to on our own, destinations in rural eastern Europe, as well as beautiful stretches of the Danube River Valley. | ||||||||||||||||
The other
nice thing about a cruise is that you meet nice people. We have made
new friends on all of our cruises, and we are still in touch with quite
a few of them after several years. This cruise was with Viking
River
Cruises, and this was our third cruise with them. Here are links to
the
2 previous cruises - one on the Rhine, and one on the Seine. |
||||||||||||||||
We started with 3 days in Budapest, and then, after boarding the boat (The Viking Aegir), made another stop in Hungary, and then stops in Croatia, Serbia, 2 in Bulgaria, and finished in Giurgiu, Romania, where we docked only in order to take a bus to Bucharest. We stayed in Bucharest for 2 days | ||||||||||||||||
|
We last visited Budapest almost 20 years ago and it was not really a pleasant experience. The city was still under the oppresive atmosphere of 70 years of communism, and the people were openly hostile to foreigners. Very few people spoke English, and tourism infrastructure was still an afterthought. I'm happy to report that this time it was different - really different, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. We found friendly faces, lots of English spoken, and tourism flourishing, and all memories of the "old Budapest" were quickly erased. | |||||||||||||||
wikipedia on budapest why visit budapest? budapest info RUIN BARS OF BUDAPEST |
We stayed for 3 nights at the Budapest Hilton City. 2 nights were part of the cruise package and we added another night at the beginning to spend more time in Budapest. This hotel was super. It's connected directly to the "West End Shopping Mall", which is the biggest (and probably the newest) shopping center in Budapest. The mall is full of high end stores and restaurants. In addition, at one end of the mall is one of the main train stations of Budapest, making the location of this hotel excellent. There was a metro station at the train station, and it was a quick 2 or 3 stop ride into the center of town. The hotel is a modern five star hotel, our room was fine, the WiFi was strong all over the hotel, the service was excellent, and breakfast was outstanding. | PAPRIKA, PAPRIKA, & MORE PAPRIKA |
||||||||||||||
the budapest skyline |
||||||||||||||||
FISHERMANS BASTION |
We
did a tour of Budapest with Viking on the third day of our stay, but we
did lots on our own. On the Viking tour, we hit all the most popular
tourist attractions, including the Chain Bridge, Andressy Avenue,
Heroes' Square, but
the most time we spent in the Castle District, which includes the
Castle itself, Fisherman's Bastion, and Matthias Church. The Buda Castle
can be visited, although we didn't go inside. It rained
while we were up on the Castle Hill, and many took shelter in the most
expensive Starbucks I have ever visited. |
THE VIEW FROM FISHERMANS' BASTION |
||||||||||||||
In any
case, it was a pleasant day. The views from the Fisherman's
Bastion are as advertised, incredible, and the Matthias
Church is as
crowded as the Sistine Chapel, but without the limits on the number of
visitors allowed in together. It's a beautiful church, but it wasn't
a very enjoyable visit. |
MATTHIUS CHURCH |
|||||||||||||||
DOHANY SYNAGOGUE |
On our own, we visited the "Dohany Synagogue" which is the largest synagogue in Europe, and the second largest in the world. It also houses a beautiful museum about Jewish life in Budapest. It is also the home of the famous “tree of life” holocaust monument. All visits here include a local guide who takes you around the synagogue and explains the history of the Jewish community in Budapest. Our guide was a pleasant young man who was born and raised in Budapest. The synagogue is beautiful, and the visit here is both worthwhile and enlightening. |
DOHANY SYNAGOGUE |
||||||||||||||
MEMORIAL GARDEN AT DOHANY SYNAGOGUE |
TREE OF LIFE AT DOHANY SYNAGOGUE |
|||||||||||||||
CENTRAL MARKET HALL |
We
also visited the Central Market Hall, the main and largest indoor
market
hall in Budapest. This
place is great fun and is a must on any visit to Budapest. On the
ground floor, is the main market. It's filled with many stalls
selling produce, meat, fruits and vegetables, and souvenirs, mostly
paprika in packages of all sizes and shapes. On the second floor are
more stalls selling souvenirs, , linens, needlepoint work, and
restaurants. This is where I had my only goulash. It was pretty good,
and cheap! Picture to the right... |
LUNCH AT THE CENTRAL MARKET |
||||||||||||||
CENTRAL MARKET HALL |
||||||||||||||||
ST. STEPHEN'S CATHEDRAL |
One
of the best things we did while in Budapest was go to an evening
concert at St.
Stephen's Basilica. The concert was pleasant, but the
main thing here is visiting the Basilica in the evening, without the
crowds.The Basilica is one of the most popular attractions in Budapest,
and it is beautiful. We thoroughly enjoyed this activity. Here's some useful information about visiting St. Stephen's
Basilica. |
|||||||||||||||
COSTES
DOWNTOWN |
||||||||||||||||
AT COSTES DOWNTOWN |
We ate at
some really good restaurants in Budapest, too. One of the best was "Costes
Downtown". which has 1 well deserved Michelin star. There are
actually 2 Costes Restaurants, and
both have that Michelin star. The downtown version (where we ate) is
more bistro style highlighted by tables without tablecloths. The tables
didn’t matter – the restaurant is beautiful, our meal was superb and
the service was great. Everything was just about perfect. We ordered a
la carte. I had duck liver, and for mains monkfish with Hungarian
sausage. Alisa had quail and then cobia fish. Everything was excellent.
On our next visit to Budapest, maybe we will try the other Costes! |
|||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||
ONYX |
||||||||||||||||
The other Michelin starred
restaurant we visited was "Onyx", which is the only 2 star restaurant in
Budapest. The restaurant
only serves tasting menus, and we selected the one called “within our
borders…” The menu includes 6 courses, including dessert, as well as 2
“amuse bouche” in the beginning and an incredible granite as a
“pre-dessert”. Alisa doesn’t eat beef, and the restaurant was very
cooperative in substituting dishes from the other menu. So, we actually
had about 10 different dishes, which gave us a very good idea about the
quality and variety of the kitchen. The chef even prepared one dish for
her that wasn’t on any of the menus.
Among the dishes I remember best were water buffalo tartare, goose liver with coffee and almonds, catfish wrapped in bacon sitting in a fish soup, veal with pea puree and brain, and others… They served 8 kinds of delicious bread at the beginning. The service was perfect, the décor beautiful and all the dishes were superb. It was a great meal with no letdowns or mistakes. |
AT ONYX RESTAURANT |
|||||||||||||||
ASZU |
||||||||||||||||
ASZU WINDOW DRESSING |
Aszu was an unexpected
surprise. We were looking for a restaurant for lunch for the following
day (our last few hours in Budapest) and on the basis of the menu
posted outside and a short conversation with the hostess, we made a
reservation. We had a nice meal here and because of the early hour, we
had the whole restaurant to ourselves. We enjoyed our meal, but the
best part was the genuinely entertaining conversation we had with the
waiter. Also, they have a nice wine list, and the waiter brought us
several to taste until we found the one we wanted.
All the dishes were tasty and well prepared, we had marinated trout, a main of grilled trout, and a lovely dish of goose breast. All in all, a very nice lunch. As for the name, “aszu” is one of the best known types of the famous Hungarian sweet wine called “Tokaji”. |
MARINATED TROUT AT ASZU |
||||||||||||||
GERBAUD |
||||||||||||||||
GERBAUD |
Café
Gerbeaud is probably the best known café in Budapest. It is famous for
its vast array of delicious pastries and chocolates. We were there many
years ago, so it was a foregone conclusion that we would visit again on
our recent return visit to Budapest. The place has expanded significantly, and still attracts many tourists. We came at lunchtime for a snack. Alisa had a salad, and I had a delicious strudel “variation”. Had we stopped there, we would have been very satisfied. Unfortunately we decided to try the brioche. It was dry and very disappointing. Later, we were surprsided to learn that the owners of Gerbaud are also the owners of Onyx, and that the restaurants are right next to one another on one of Budapest's most famous squares, Vörösmarty Square. |
"STRUDEL VARIATION" AT GERBAUD |
||||||||||||||
TGI Fridays |
||||||||||||||||
This
is a faithful copy of the restaurants in the well-known American chain.
The menu was very similar, and the food just as good. I couldn’t resist
ordering the Jack Daniels ribs, and they were absolutely terrific.
Alisa had the Jack Daniels salmon, which was also very good. |
||||||||||||||||
BESTIA |
||||||||||||||||
Bestia
is a very trendy and busy bar / restaurant located steps from St
Stephan’s Basilica. We were on our way to a concert at the
Basilica, so this was a convenient restaurant for a light meal. We had
a salmon salad, and liver pate. The food was average, but the beer was
cold and fresh. |
||||||||||||||||
A LITTLE
ABOUT HUNGARIAN WINE |
||||||||||||||||
Hungary is well known for its white wines. Most people are familiar with Tokaji, which has both dry and sweet versions, although the sweet one is the famous one.We were pleasantly surprised by the dry whites which weren't strictly Tokaji. Below is a picture of the wine we fell in love with right at the beginning of the trip. We had it at the Onyx Restaurant (described above). The grape is called "Harslevelu" and is a popular white grape in Hungary. The Hungarian label is tough to understand, but as far as I can tell, the name of the winery is Hollóvár and it is located in the Somlo region, a well known wine region located about 200 KM west of Budapest. This | all about hungarian wines "WINE FOLLY" ON HUNGARY'S WINES JANCIS ROBINSON ON HUNGARIAN WINES |
|||||||||||||||
We looked
for this wine in stores and in other restaurants, although we were told
by the restaurant sommelier that being a 2012, there was little chance
to find it in any store. It turns out that we wouldn't have been able
to find any wine from Hollóvár in any store, had we known what I now
know after doing research for this page. I found out the following on a
web site about Hungarian wines. On the label is the name "Lajos
Takács". Here's what I learned about Lajos. Lajos Takács founded the Hollóvár winery in 1997. In 2014, Lajos returned to Tokaj in Hegyalja, making 2013 the last vintage of Hollóvár wines. His batches are still held by several outstanding Hungarian restaurants on his wine list. |
||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||
KALOCSA, HUNGARY |
||||||||||||||||
ST JOSEPHS CHURCH IN KALOCSA |
Our first
"port of call" was Kalocsa, a small town of about 16,000 population
located about 140 KM south
of Budapest. It is one of the oldest towns in Hungary.The main church
is a cathedral (St Mary's), and we attended a short organ concert
at the nearby St. Joseph's church. The main attraction in the
area is located about 12 KM away and is known as the Bakodpuszta
Equestrian Center (also known as the Bakod Horse Farm). |
|||||||||||||||
This center
is dedicated to preserving the Hungarian tradition of horsemanship.
They put on quite a show, displaying their skill at running horses as
well as bulls, and it's all very impressive and entertaining. We were
there on a rainy muddy day, but that didn't hold up the show, although
it did affect the quality of my pictures. Here is a link to a site with a great detailed description
and lots of great pictures. here is the Facebook page of the Bakod Horse Farm. |
EQUESTRIAN SHOW AT BAKODPUSZTA |
|||||||||||||||
OSIJEK (Vukovar), CROATIA |
||||||||||||||||
CONCERT IN VUKAVAR |
Osijek
is the 4th largest city in Croatia. It's also the economic and cultural
capital of Slavonia, the most eastern region of Croatia. This
is an area less well known and less touristed than the best known area
of Croatia, the Dalmation Coast, located on the Adriatic Sea. We
visited both Osijek and Vukovar, which is about 35 KM from Osijek, and
also on the Danube River, but is not a river cruise porting stop. |
TEODORA, OUR LOVELY GUIDE IN OSIJEK |
||||||||||||||
HOME VISIT IN OSIJEK |
In
any case, the most interesting thing we did on this day was a visit to
a
private home, which is licenced as a B&B. We (small groups of 10)
had an almost hour-long chat
with the lady of the house who spoke excellent English. We had her home
made refreshments, and she told us about life here, including the
period during the war which tore Yugoslavia apart. She and her brother
spent the war years away from their family home in Osijek. It was a
very interesting visit. |
11 reasons to visit osijek 25 things about vukovar vokavar - still divided by war |
||||||||||||||
HOLY TRINITY SQUARE IN VUKOVAR CENTER |
In Vukovar,
we heard a concert by a local singer at the "Holy Cross Church", and we
also visited the main town square, and a local museum (maybe a convent,
and maybe in Osijek) with a modest holocaust monument. There are many
buildings in Vukovar still with war damage, and the topic of the war in
the 90's is a very sensitive one here. Most of the fighting here was
between Croats and Serbs, and much hostility remains. Vukovar is the
site of an infamous massacre
which occured here in 1991. |
HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL IN VUKOVAR |
||||||||||||||
BELGRADE, SERBIA |
||||||||||||||||
KALEMEGDON FORTRESS IN BELGRADE |
Belgradeis the capital of Serbia, and is located at the confluence of the Danube and Sava Rivers. This strategic location has made it a popular miitary target, and for that reason, it has been destroyed and rebuilt at least 20 times in its history. Influences from the various historical occupying empires have left their mark on the city, with the latest being the Ottoman Turks (until 1918), and then the Soviet Union. Today it is a modern European capital with about 1.1 million inhabitants. | THE VIEW FROM KALEMEGDON FORTRESS |
||||||||||||||
THE TEMPLE OF ST. SAVA |
We visited
the city's most famous landmark, the famous Kalemegdon Fortress, with
it fantastic views in every direction. We strolled through the adjacent
park and got a detailed history lesson from our very knowledgable
guide, Melitza. We drove through modern Belgrade, and stopped for a
stroll in the "Square of the Republic", where we had some free time.
After this we visited the incredible "Temple of St. Sava".
It is the second largest Orthodox temple in the world, but is largely
incomplete inside and has been compared to Barcelona's "Sagrada
Familia". Read about its history here. The underground crypt appears to be finished
and is magnificant, filled with paintings and mosaics. Photo to the
left below. |
|||||||||||||||
THE UNDERGROUND CRYPT IN THE TEMPLE OF ST SAVA |
Right next to the massive temple described above, is a little chapel, which is apparently called the old Church of Saint Sava. Our guide Melitza, explained to us that when she was a student, this was a favorite meeting place for her and her friends.This little tidbit highlighted how delightful it can be to have a real local native as a guide. It really brings the place to life. In any case, this little church is really beautiful and its walls are covered with artwork. |
OUR GUIDE MELITZA IN THE "LITTLE CHAPEL" |
||||||||||||||
CRUISING THE IRON GATE |
||||||||||||||||
THE IRON GATES GORGE |
This was a
cruising day and we didn't leave the boat until the evening. This
stretch of river is known as the "Iron Gate".
It's considered to be the most scenic stretch of the Danube, and
includes beautiful natural wonders, as well 2 dams which feature giant
locks for raising and lowering the level of passing boats, and of
course an hydro-electric
power plant which supplies electric power to both sides of the river,
in this case Serbia and Romania. For those interested in esoteric
technical information, here is a link
to the technical information about this power plant. Here is a great
video (only 3 minutes) about passing through the lock, and here is a 53
minute video about the entire project. The first 2 minutes explain all
you need to know - the rest details the entire construction project. |
MONASTERY MRACONIA |
||||||||||||||
IN ONE OF THE LOCKS AT THE IRON GATES DAM |
The locks
were fascinating, but the most impressive thing to see is the highest
rock sculpture in Europe, the sculpture of "Dacian King Decebal". The
King was also known as "Decebalus". We were lucky. It was cloudy and
overcast early in the morning, but the sun came out around 9 AM, and
the day became just perfect for this sailing day. At the end of this
beautiful day of sailing, we docked at Vidin, Bulgaria. |
more on "decebal's head more about the iron gate |
||||||||||||||
VIDIN, BULGARIA |
||||||||||||||||
We were
told that Vidin is the poorest town in the poorest country in Europe.
That would make it the poorest town in Europe.
It appeared pretty poor ro us, but we have no way of knowing whether it
is entitled to this bombastic title. As noted above, we docked here at
the end of the day, and right near the anchorage, we found a lovely
gift shop selling locally produced artwork. Half the ship's guests
visited this gift shop. Other than that, there were a few bars and lots
of drab buildings. |
||||||||||||||||
THE ENTRANCE TO BELOGRADCHIK FORTRESS |
So, what to
do in the poorests town in Bulgaria? The solution is to drive for
almost an hour to get to a very popular place, the "Belogradchik
Rocks" and the "Belogradchik Fortress", both located near the town
of Belogradchik.
The "rocks" is really an amazing geological wonder! The entire area is
covered with weird rock formations, many of which have been given names
by the locals of the things or animals they resemble. Very weird and
very interesting.
My pictures don't do these rock formations justice. Check out the
"rocks" link above to see some really good representative pictures. |
ENTRANCE ARCHWAY TO BELOGRADCHIK FORTRESS |
||||||||||||||
THE CLIMB UP IN BELOGRADCHIK FORTRESS |
As
for the fortress, it's located right amongst the rocks. It was built
during Roman times, and the local rock formations make up much of the
walls. There
are several levels, and the walk up to the upper level is more than 200
steps, and is only for the hardy, as the steps are not easy. Once up
however, the views are panoramic and beautiful. At the bottom there is
a little cafe which serves cold beer which is very welcome after the
climb up and down. |
|||||||||||||||
ROUSE (and Veliko Tarnovo), BULGARIA | ||||||||||||||||
SAMOVODSKA CHARSHIA STREET IN VELIKO TARNOVO |
Rouse
is the 5th largest city in Bulgaria and has a population of about
180,000. It is an attractive city, and some call it "Little Vienna".
According to this
site, it got that name in the 19th century
due to its impressive mix of architectural styles. I'm not so sure that
the name applies today. In any case we toured Rouse a bit, but the main
part of our day was visiting Veliko Tarnovo, and Arbanasi, both located
more than 100 KM away from Russe. |
|||||||||||||||
Veliko Tarnovo is a medieval town built around Tsarevets Hill, location of the historic fortress of the same name. There's also a famous monument here commemorating the Assenov brothers, local heroes and rulers of much of Bulgaria in the 12th century. The main event here was an hour spent on Samovodska Charshia Street, which is a long street in the center of town which is essentially a local crafts market. Some of the group opted to walk up to the Tsarevets Fortress. | RUIN NEAR VELIKO TARNOVO |
|||||||||||||||
After
Veliko Tarnovo, we drove about 10 KM to Arbanesi, and visited a local
museum called Konstantsalieva House which was the home of a
well-to-do merchant family, and shows the local life during the 17th
century. After that, we visited a local church, and then went to a
local restaurant for lunch.
Our guide on this day was our second guide called Teodora. She was my
favorite guide, as she had a great sense of humor and was very modest
and didn't talk too much. Here she is to the right with us in the
Konstantsalieva House. |
KONTSTANTSALIEVA MUSEUM |
|||||||||||||||
AT IZVORA RESTAURANT |
On most
days after a tour on land, the passengers get back to the boat in time
for lunch.
On this particular day, because of the long drive we had lunch "on the
road". We ate at a raucous and huge restaurant near Arbanese called Izvora,
which means "the source" (as in water) in Bulgarian. The place
is huge (in order to accommodate large groups like us), with gardens,
flowing water, a bridge, a water wheel, several different dining areas,
and a roving band playing local folk music. They even got most of us
dancing around in a "conga line".The food was average local fare, but
the place was very entertaining. According to the web site, It
apparently offers rooms to rent as well. |
AT IZVORA RESTAURANT |
||||||||||||||
SAND SCULPTURES ON THE RUSSE SHORE |
On our
last night on the boat, we sailed our shortest cruise leg.
It took less than an hour and entailed crossing from one side of the
Danube to the other. We "sailed" from Russe, in Bulgaria to Giurgiu, in
Romania. They are
pretty much right across the river from one another. This was done so
that we would disambark from the boat in Romania, as we would be headed
to Bucharest and this would save at least 2 hours of traffic if we
stayed docked in Russe. |
|||||||||||||||
AT THE VILLAGE MUSEUM |
So,
we disembarked in Giurgiu, and then took an hour bus ride to Bucharest,
where we had our last tour connected to the cruise. We visited the
city's main attractions including the Arch of Triumph, the old town,
and of course, Ceausescu's most famous monumental and excessive
project, "The Palace of Parliament", with its 3000 rooms and
24 carat
gold ceilings. There are limited tours available, but we didn't go
inside. The main visit of the tour was to the " Village Museum",
an ethnographic park with buildings and houses from different areas and
different periods of Romania. It is quite large, and we only saw a
small part of it. It is interesting and a worthwhile visit while in
Bucharest. Here is the official web site of the Village Museum. |
ALISA ENJOYING THE VILLAGE MUSEUM |
||||||||||||||
AT PESCARUS FOR LUNCH |
This
was another day with lunch off the ship and we ate at a restaurant
called Pescarus.
This place was similar to the restaurant in Arbanese, except without
the water, the grass and the grounds. It was huge, and it also
presented local entertainment. The name might imply that fish is served
here, but we didn't see any. We got the usual local meat dishes. The
food was nothing special, but the entertainment never stopped. There
were local people eating there, and the menu actually looks quite
varied and more interesting than what we ate. |
AT PESCARUS FOR LUNCH |
||||||||||||||
While in Bucharest, we stayed
at the Radisson Blu
a very nice 5 star hotel selected by Viking Cruise lines. This is
a lovely modern 5 star hotel, with a very nice location. It’s about a
10 minute walk to the old town, and is close to many popular
attractions. There are numerous stores and restaurants within walking
distance. Our room was fine, the service was excellent, and breakfast
was outstanding. Our only complaint would be the WiFi which was very
weak in our room and also had to be reconnected almost every time after
we rode in the elevator.
|
||||||||||||||||
a guide to public transportation in bucharest getting around in bucharest |
We
didn't
use public transportation even once while in Bucharest for 2 reasons.
Firstly, being in the center, it is quite possible to walk to most
destinations, but the second reason is the price of the taxis. The
price for a taxi is about the lowest I have seen anywhere. The most we
paid for a taxi within the city was about $5, and even the ride to the
airport only cost about $10. I don't know how the taxi drivers survive.
It was explained to me that the taxi price is written on the outside of
the taxi, and that we should check
what that price is, because there are "cheap" taxis and "expensive"
taxis where the fare per kilometer is about double that of the other.
That being said, even the "expensive" taxis were cheap. The drivers
speak little English, so it's best to come prepared with something
written to explain your destination. |
|||||||||||||||
On
our own in Bucharest, we walked around quite a bit. On the single full
day we had, we walked about 12 KM, and visited the Old Town, and the
Jewish Quarter. We visited the Choral Synagogue, a beautiful working
synagogue, but we couldn't go in because it was Saturday. We looked
for a particular Holocaust memorial supposedly in the area, but with
all the construction going on in the neighborhood, we couldn't find it.
We were with a good friend who is originally from Bucharest, and speaks
the language. He asked quite a few people, but nobody could direct us.
We did find the Yiddish language theatre. It's called the "State Jewish Theatre". |
THE CHORAL SYNAGOGUE IN BUCHAREST |
|||||||||||||||
CARU' CU BERE |
||||||||||||||||
Caru' cu bere
is one of the best known restaurants in Bucharest. It’s a giant beer
hall with a full menu of local fare, from starters to desserts. It’s
usually full with lots of the guests who are mostly tourists.
We came at a late lunch hour, and outside it was full, but inside there were plenty of tables. We tasted one of the many beers they have on tap, and ordered a dessert as well. The beer was cold and fresh, the dessert was very good, but the service was totally chaotic. It took a while to find a waiter to serve us, and at the end, it took just as long to find some way to pay. |
CARU CU BERE |
|||||||||||||||
LA MAMA |
||||||||||||||||
AT LA MAMA |
La Mama
is a chain of local restaurants serving classic Romanian fare. We were
at the branch in the old town with an old friend and I was looking for
authentic Romanian kebab. Our friend promised me authentic Romanian
kebab (called “mititei”) at La Mama, which I remember from my
childhood. That’s what I ordered and I enjoyed it very much. I also had
“ciorbă”, another Romanian classic, which is sour soup with various
meats. Mine had veal and it was delicious. It was a lot cheaper than Caru' Cu Bere, and nowhere near as crowded, and probably, the food is just as good. |
MY ROMANIAN KEBAB AT LA MAMA |
||||||||||||||
PRIME SUMMER GARDEN | ||||||||||||||||
We also ate at one of the
restaurants at the Radisson. (There were at least four!) We ate at the
poolside restaurant called "Prime Summer Garden". We were both surprised and
a little confused eating here. We wanted to eat at the restaurant
inside the Radisson, where we were staying, which is called “Prime
Steaks & Seafood” and which looked to be quite good. We found that
this
place was closed, so we ate at the grill restaurant outside near the
pool. There, we were told by the waitress that the restaurant outside
is the same as the restaurant inside, but that the restaurant inside
closes for the summer.
In any case, we were pleasantly surprised by the food, which was like the menu of the restaurant inside, and far better than the average fare at a poolside grill restaurant. We enjoyed our dinner, and in particular, enjoyed the scallop dish which was delicious and well prepared. |
||||||||||||||||
THE ARTIST |
||||||||||||||||
ARTWORK AT "THE ARTIST" |
The Artist is the closest thing there is to a
Michelin star restaurant to be found in Bucharest. The Dutch chef, Paul
Oppenkamp clearly wants one and we think the restaurant is close, but
not there quite yet. There are a few little items which could still
need a little improvement, like the bread.
The restaurant is in a lovely refurbished villa, with artwork all over, and the walls painted in a most unusual way. The food was lovely, imaginative, and the service was excellent. |
ROMANTIC CORNER AT THE ARTIST |
||||||||||||||
FOIE GRAS WITH SMOKED EEL |
There is a
tasting menu, but our
group of four ordered from the a la carte menu. The standout dishes
were
the foie gras with smoked eel, and at the very end of the meal, an
amazing cucumber
sorbet. The dishes in between were also quite good. The scallop dish
was excellent, and 2 thirds of the "pork
trio" were very good. One of the three was a little over cooked. All in
all it
was an excellent meal, and sooner rather than later, I think The Artist
will
become Bucharest's first Michelin star restaurant. |
|||||||||||||||
If you are
thinking of taking a river cruise, here are a few points to consider. |
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||
WE LOVE BUDAPEST |
||||||||||||||||
HELLO HUNGARY |
||||||||||||||||
OFFICIAL
TOURISM PORTAL OF BULGARIA |
||||||||||||||||
ROMANIAN
TOURISM |
||||||||||||||||
UNCOVER ROMANIA |
||||||||||||||||
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC - TOP 10 THINGS TO DO IN
BUCHAREST |
||||||||||||||||
SAILING THE DANUBE - THE TELEGRAPH |
||||||||||||||||
5 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT CRUISING ON THE DANUBE |
||||||||||||||||