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6 DAYS
IN SEPTEMBER, 2017 |
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THE FLAG OF SPAIN |
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THE EMBLEM OF MADRID A BEAR AND A STRAWBERRY TREE |
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CLICK ON ANY THUMBNAIL TO SEE A FULL SIZED PICTURE | |||
some interesting facts about madrid |
Madrid
is the capital of Spain, with a population around 3.2 million, and is
located at an elevation of almost 700 meters above sea level. Because
of this elevation, it has a relatively cool climate (for Spain at
least), with
cool winters. It's well known as a cultural center of Europe with many
beautiful buildings, world class museums, and excellent
restaurants. Alisa and I last visited Madrid about 20 years ago,
and we decided that it was
time to return. We also arranged a family get together and my sister
Carol
flew in from New Jersey to meet us. |
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PLAZA MAYOR |
20
years is a long time. I really don't remember much about our first
visit, as it was before I started this travel site, so I don't have
anything to check. The one place I remember well is Plaza
Mayor,
one of Madrid's most iconic tourist sites. and the tiny tapas bars
located on the side street outside the plaza. I remember eating the
famous grilled mushrooms, which were the only item sold in one of the
most famous of these little bars. I also remember that we could walk
through and around Plaza Mayor without being jostled by hordes of
tourists. That's all changed in those 20 years. This time our visit was
with hundreds, if not thousands of tourists all with the same thing in
mind - to stroll in Plaza Mayor. |
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We
stayed at Hotel Principal Madrid,
a wonderful 5 star hotel right in the center of Madrid and which
deserves every one of those stars. The location is perfect, right at
the start of the Gran Via (one of Madrid's finest avenues), the staff
was excellent and attentive, and our rooms (we had 2) were modern and
well designed. We didn’t have any view from our rooms, but the open
terrace (and bar) on the 7 floor, with its incredible views, more than
made up for that. The 7th floor terrace is directly opposite the Metropolis Building, one of the most iconic buildings in Madrid. Picture at the top. The restaurant (Atica) on the 6th floor was also
superb. More on Atica later. |
7TH FLOOR TERRACE AT THE PRINCIPAL |
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The floor arrangement is a little odd, as the entrance is on street level (with a full time staff person on duty), and the lobby and reception are on the 6th floor. The rooms are on floors 2 to 5. This is not a problem, just something people considering this hotel should know. We had a great stay and loved every minute we spent at this hotel. | |||
THE ROYAL PALACE |
On
the first 2 full days we were in Madrid, we utilized the hop on/hop off
tourist bus. This turned out to be a very efficient way to see the
highlights of the city. It
was very convenient, the busses were clean and everything worked. The
staff was helpful and friendly, and the explanations we heard through
the earphones were clear and understandable. There are 2 different
routes and we did them both. The price for 2 days use was only slightly
higher than the price for one day. I ordered the tickets online through
this site.
If you understand the bus routes, and in particular, the direction of
travel, it's also possible to use the bus in place of public
transportation. |
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In addition to riding the bus,
we also walked a lot and here are some of the places we visited. |
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COURTYARD AT THE REINA SOFIA |
MUSEUM REINA SOFIA World class museum specializing
in modern art, with many works of the biggest names. Very walkable, and
not too big. We were there at around 11 AM on a Saturday and it wasn’t
overly crowded.
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INSIDE THE REINA SOFIA |
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GAVIRIA PALACE AND THE ESCHER
EXHIBITION I’ve
always been a big fan of
Escher, and visiting an exhibition of his life and works in this
beautiful historic building was a real treat. The exhibition was well
done and the palace by itself is worth a visit. I had to go alone
because my 2 companions weren't interested. It's located right on the
main tourist route between Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor.
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EL CORTE INGLES We also visited El Corte
Ingles, which is the biggest department store group in Europe and the
last remaining department store chain in Spain. A big branch is located
right next to Puerta del Sol, and includes a large supermarket and
plenty of food options. We had a snack here, and Alisa and my sister
spent a while shopping. I meanwhile sat in Starbucks. They sell
everything here, from designer labels to wine and gourmet
food treats of all kinds.
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PLAZA MAYOR |
PLAZA MAYOR I would guess that Plaza Mayor is the most iconic tourist spot to visit in Madrid. As I wrote above, we remember it from our first visit, and had to go back. It looks the same - just lots more tourists, and African immigrants selling selfie sticks! |
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PUERTA del
SOL They call Puerta del Sol the center of Madrid, which also makes it the center of Spain. It is the Times Square of Madrid. It's inundated with tourists, stores, street sellers, cheap stores and restaurants and street entertainers. Here's one to the right floating in midair and entertaining Alisa. |
AT PUERTA DEL SOL |
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MERCADO SAN ANTON This
upscale gourmet market in Cueca is not to be missed. It's just a short
walk from the Gran Via, and is filled with interesting little food
stalls and shops. It also houses a large normal supermarket.
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AT PLATEA |
PLATEA This is an upscale venue
which is a bit hard to describe. Its own web site
describes it as "a unique
gastronomic leisure space". It is located at Plaza Colon,
and on
the ground floor has a few expensive upscale stores, and on the lower 2
floors, it is mostly restaurants, with a large pintxos bar, and a
variety of what I have to call "gourmet fast food" bars. It also has
one very exclusive gourmet food shop with an entrance both inside and
outside on the street. The food dining area opens at 12. We enjoyed
pintxos for
lunch here. There is also a gourmet restaurant on an upper floor, which
I believe is open only in the evening.
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AT PLATEA |
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GOURMET SHOP AT PLATEA |
EL RASTRO
MARKET I'm not sure whether to describe this here, or below with the other walks. El Rastro is the oldest and most iconic street market in Madrid and operates only on Sunday starting at around 9 AM. It is mostly a flea market, but there are plenty of non flea market stuff to buy. Also the stores and restaurants along the street are fully open while the market is going on. It runs south from Plaza del Cascorro in the La Latina neighborhood down to Puerta de Toledo. Make sure you start at Plaza del Cascorro and walk down to Puerta de Toledo, because the other direction is all uphill |
EL RASTRO MARKET |
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15 free things to do in madrid 10 best things to do in madrid STROLL THE MOST BEAUTIFUL STREETS IN MADRID |
There are plenty of other places to visit and things to do in Madrid, and we did visit some of them, but I think there are enough city guides available on the net that you don't need anymore details from me. I will mention some of the places we are sorry we didn't get to like the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, Retiro Park (we saw it from the edges but didn't go in), The San Miguel Market (we did visit several other markets), and the CaixaForum Madrid. I really wanted to visit the last one, (modern art in an old power station building), but we just couldn't find the time. I will describe below a few nice walks we made throught some of Madrid's most interesting neighborhoods. | ||
GRAN VIA This is one of Madrid's best
known streets, and our hotel was right at the corner where this
street starts. For New Yorkers, this is Broadway and 5th Avenue rolled
into one. It is non-stop stores and restaurants, and iconic and
beautiful buildings.It seems to be teeming with people at all hours of
the day and night. We also
attended a concert at the Theatre de la Luz, at Gran Via, 66. The
performer was Pitingo, one of Spain's most popular entertainers. We
enjoyed the concert very much!
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LOVELY BUILDING ON CALLE MAYOR |
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LAS HUERTAS |
Las HUERTAS This street is the main street
through the neighborhood of Las Letras.
It's best known for nightlife, restaurants, and a literary and cultural
history, hence the name "letras" which means "letters". Cervantes and
other literary figures lived in this neighborhood, although any remains
of there homes have been largely wiped away. Las Huertas is a
pedestrian only street stretching from near the Prado Museum almost all
the way to Plaza Mayor. It's a nice walk, but if you do it, start at
the Plaza Mayor as it's downhill all the way in that direction.
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CUECA Cueca is the neighborhood just
north of the Gran Via, and is the center
of the gay community. It's very "residential" and is full of small
stores and restaurants. In the neightborhood is the famous Mercado San
Anton, which I described above. Most of the restaurants we ate at were
in or near to Cueca.
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SOME MORE ON SAN ILDEFONSO OFFICIAL SITE OF SAN ILDEFONSO (SPANISH ONLY) |
CALLE de FUENCARRAL Fuencarral is a pedestrian only
street which runs from Gran Via north for about 500 meters. It is
full of stores and just north of the pedestrian area is the well known Mercado de San Ildefonso. This little
mercado is mainly a
collection of bars and small restaurants frequented by young locals.
Walking along Fuencarral is quite an experience, as you are bombarded
with music blaring from the stores and thick crowds of shoppers and, I
guess, other tourists. Fuencarral is actually part of a longer
pedestrian only street which connects to it at Gran Via and runs south
to Puerta del Sol. The southern branch is called Calle de la Montera.
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MERCADO DE SAN ILDEFONSO |
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La LATINA La Latina
is a lively neighborhood just south of Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol.
2 of its main plazas are are Humiladero and de Cascorro, but there are
others as well. The Plaza De Cascorro also happens to
be the northern starting point of the El Rastro Market, which I
described above. This neighborhood is full of bars, and restaurants,
and on the sunny Sunday morning we were there, the streets were teeming
with people. I particularly enjoyed the Plaza Humiladero, which is
full of restaurants and the Calle Cava Baja which runs north from this
plaza and is filled with tapas bars.
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And, as a
special and unexpected treat, we got to watch the "Madrid
Challenge"
cycling competition, a 90 KM bike race on a closed loop within the
center of Madrid. The route went right by our hotel over, and over, and
over, and Alisa watched it for quite a while. It did cause a bit of
inconvenience, as several main streets were closed, and it was hard to
get a taxi, but it was exciting to watch! |
THE MADRID CHALLENGE |
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We did a
day trip to Toledo. I
booked with a local company called Madrid Day Tours,
for a driver (with a vehicle) and 8 hours
in Toledo, starting and finishing at our hotel in Madrid. We were
very pleased with this tour. The booking process was easy and simple,
with quick and clear email responses. Our driver Jamal was
as good as any guide could have been. We enjoyed a great day with him.
I should also note that only a very minimal deposit was requested and
the rest was paid at the end of the tour. Below is a little background and
the highlights of our visit. |
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TOLEDO |
Toledo
sits majestically above the Tagus River and is now one of the most
visited sites in all Spain. The history of Toledo dates back to Roman
occupation circa 192 BCE. The ruins of the Roman circus are still
visible just outside the walls of the city. Roman occupation was
followed by Visigoth rule, Muslim rule and finally the Reconquest of
Toledo in 1085 CE. Toledo was the capital of the Spanish empire until
the mid-1500's when the royal court moved to Madrid. Toledo is about 70
km from the city of Madrid and has a population of about 80,000. It is
the capital of Toledo Province and is listed in the UNESCO World
Heritage Site for its monumental and cultural legacy. There are absolutely breathtaking views of the city when seen from the
neighboring hills. |
TOLEDO |
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THE ALCAZAR FORTRESS The Alcazar
is a monumental and very impressive fortress, rebuilt in its current
form in the 16th century. Today it is a military museum, which of
course can be visited, but we opted to view it only from the
outside.
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THE ALCAZAR |
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THE SEPHARDIC MUSEUM |
THE JEWISH QUARTER Toledo is noted for its multi
religious heritage, and it has a Moslem quarter as well as a Jewish
quarter. The Jewish quarter is a very popular tourist venue and
includes several historic synagogues. One is the El Transito Synagogue
which houses the Sephardic Museum, which is a wonderful museum
about Jewish life in Toledo and is well worth a visit.
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SYNAGOGUE DE SANTA MARIA LA BLANCA |
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sephardic museum images history and facts about santa maria le blanca |
The other synagogue we visited
was the "Synagogue de Santa Maria la Blanca".
That certainly doesn't sound like the name of a synagogue, but like
most of the synagogues in Spain, it was also a mosque and later a
church. In fact, it is built in the style of a mosque, but today has the name
of a
church. Another
popular attraction in Toledo is the museum of the painter El Greco. We
went by it several times as it is right in the Jewish quarter, but
didn't visit.
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THE CATHEDRAL |
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INCREDIBLE SCULPTURE IN THE TOLEDO CATHEDRAL |
To put it
mildly, I was blown away by the Toledo Cathedral.
I visited alone, as wife and sister decided to have coffee and do some
shopping. Admission is 9 Euros. The full name is the "Primate Cathedral
of Saint Mary of Toledo", and it is amazing. I have never been so
overwhelmed by a cathedral. It is so full of art, statues, gold
ornamentation, stained glass windows, and doors and gates, and... I
hope you get the picture. |
INSIDE THE CATHEDRAL |
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HOLY TOLEDO! BLOG ABOUT A VISIT TO TOLEDO CATHEDRAL (MORE AND BETTER PICTURES THAN MINE) the history and technical side of the cathedral |
An
excellent audio guide comes with the price of admission, and it was one
of the best I have ever used, telling the story of all the different
parts of the cathedral. There were quite a few visitors but it
wasn't overcrowded. Most everybody was using an audioguide, as there is
so much to see, and everything has a story and explanation behind it.
If
Alisa and Carol weren't waiting for me outside, I would have stayed
another hour. |
INSIDE THE CATHEDRAL |
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PLAZA DE ZOCODOVER This
is the historical center
of the city. It used to be the central market place. It is triangular
in shape and is mostly filled with souvenir shops, occasional farmers
markets, and fast food restaurants. In the late 15th century, it was
also the center of activity
of the Spanish Inquisition, and the place where Jews and other heretics
were burned at the stake. The most famous
inquisitor, Tomas de Torquemada, had his headquarters in Toledo. Today
it is home to McDonalds and Burger King. Such is the irony of history!
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PLAZA DE ZOCODOVER |
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ATICO RESTAURANT |
ATICO This
is the restaurant of the
Principal Hotel in Madrid where we stayed. It is on the 6th floor and
has a lovely view. The restaurant is Michelin star quality, although it
has no stars (yet). The executive chef (Ramón Freixa) does have 2 stars
at his other restaurant and it shows here in the food and presentation.
Both the food and service were excellent, and we thoroughly enjoyed the
dinner we had here.
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HAKE AT ATICO |
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PETIT COMITÈ |
PETIT
COMITÈ Lovely restaurant with
beautiful artwork on the walls, and a varied menu. The restaurant is in
Cueca, about a 5 minute walk from our hotel. The service was excellent
and the food was Michelin star quality. I had grilled octopus here and
it was delicious. We had a very nice dinner here.
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GRILLED OCTOPUS AT PETIT COMITE |
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PAELLA AT LA BARRACA |
LA BARRACA This is a lovely family owned restaurant also located on the edge of the Cueca neighborhood, and just down the street from the restaurant above, Petit Comitè. We had paella in several restaurants while in Madrid, but the best one we had was here at La Barraca. We also had fish soup, and grilled shrimp. All the food was excellent here. |
AT LA BARRACA |
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AT RIBIERO DO MIÑO |
RIBEIRA DO MINO This is an iconic seafood
restaurant, specializing in serving mountains of fresh and delicious
seafood. We had the “mariscada” for 2, which was more than enough
for the 3 of us. It is literally a mountain of seafood, and everything
was delicious, and lots of fun. The place is very informal and noisy,
and everybody has a good time, including the waiters. If you like
seafood and you are in Madrid, this is the place to go!
The restaurant has a website (linked above), but reservations can only be made by phone. |
MARISCADA AT RIBIERO DO MIÑO |
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AT TABERNA LA CARMENCITA |
TABERNA LA
CARMENCITA This is a place with atmosphere
and history. They claim to be the second oldest tavern in Madrid. The
walls are covered with beautiful ceramic tiles, and the menu is filled
with classic dishes which includes lots of fish and seafood. We had
mussels, fresh marinated sardines, a lovely dish of sole (pictured to
the right) and an order of paella. I highly recommend this restaurant
if you are looking for an authentic old world restaurant with lots of
atmosphere. This is another of those many good restaurants in
Cueca.
We ate here on the last night of this visit to Madrid because it was close to the hotel, and they don't close for a siesta (they operate from 1 PM to 1 AM!), so we were able to eat dinner relatively early - at 7, which is what we wanted on the evening before our morning flights. |
DELICIOUS SOLE AT CARMENCITA |
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ICING THE TABLE AT YAKITORI |
YAKITORI Yakitori is an Asian restaurant
which was about 50 feet from our hotel entrance. We walked by it 10 or
20 times and until we decided to actually check it out, we thought it was just another
conventional Asian restaurant with lots of sushi, and dishes with
exotic names and lots of sauce.
Once we decided to eat here, we discovered a very different ambience. The restaurant has created a fusion of sorts – Spanish tapas and Japanese dishes. All the dishes are small, and most, but not all, come on skewers. In the center of each table is a sunken area filled with crushed ice and bottled drinks. We fell in love with the concept and enjoyed the food just as much. The dish all three of us agreed on as the evening’s standout dish was the “crisp duck confit with spinach and orange”. We liked it so much, we ordered another serving. |
CRISPY DUCK AT YAKITORI |
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VIANDAS DE SALAMANCA This is listed as a “ham shop”
with online sales. We visited the shop at Montera 3, which is just off
Puerta del Sol. Downstairs it is indeed a ham shop, but upstairs is a
quiet bar serving tapas (mainly ham or cheese) and wine. We had a nice
pre-lunch snack.
If you are looking for a (quiet) snack at Puerta del Sole, this would
be a good choice. |
ONE OF MANY JAMON (ham in spanish) MUSEUMS IN MADRID |
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ALISA WITH A CALAMARI SANDWICH BIGGER THAN HER |
EL
BRILLANTE El
Brillante is one of those
restaurants whose ambiance is more famous than its food. It is located
right
across the street from the Atocha train station and is probably full at
all times. It certainly was when we were there. We stopped in for lunch
after visiting the Reina Sofia Museum. Alisa had a salad, but I saw
that everybody was eating the calamari sandwich, so I ordered one for
my sister and me and it was enough for the both of us. The place is
huge inside and has many, many tables outside, where we sat. The
ambience is “fun and fast”. The calamari sandwich was super. It was
big, but not as big as the one in the picture to the left. Our waiter
also had a sense of humor and all in all, it was a fun and filling
lunch!
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5 GREAT SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS IN MADRID |
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THE BAR INSIDE CAMAROTE |
CAMAROTE This was where we had lunch after visiting the El Rastro market in La Latina. It is located right in the middle of Humilladero Plaza. Of the several restaurants located here, it had the most varied menu and that’s why we ate here. We had salad, chicken with chips (which seemed to be plantain chips), and squid, Andalusian style. The food was reasonable, although the service was a bit slow. I saw at other tables several locals who ordered the calamari sandwich, which was huge, and apparently popular.This was a very average restaurant, but good enough for a quick lunch. |
MY SQUID, ANDALUSIAN STYLE |
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JOSEMI FOOD & BEER Breakfast at the Principal is
quite expensive, and we didn't want a full breakfast anyway, so we looked
around for a quick, simple, cheap place to eat breakfast. The first
place we found was Josemi's which is located located directly across
the
street from the hotel. It was perfect if you come after 8 AM. Josemi
opens at 7, but nothing is ready besides the coffee. By 8, there's food to eat as well.
Breakfast at Josemi was coffee and a croissant, or a Spanish omelet
(eggs surrounding lots of potatoes), and a glass of juice and the bill
for 3 of us was 12 Euros. It was just what we were looking for – a
quick and tasty breakfast.
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NOMA FOOD
& BAR Noma restaurant was another
nearby restaurant where we ate breakfast.
It's a small restaurant about a 1 minute walk from the hotel. It serves
a
variety of set breakfast menus and is clean and neat. At breakfast time, the
service is kind of slow, because it is so popular and full. However,
breakfast was fresh and tasty. It's a little more sophisticated than
Josemi's and we ate here twice.
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BON APPETIT I found this little patisserie
by accident. I was just walking around, and discovered this beautiful
little place which is both a patisserie and light food
restaurant. It suited us for breakfast just when we needed it as
it opened every morning at 730. It has a surprisingly wide menu, with
several breakfasts available, as well as pizza and other light fare,
and of course all of its delicious bakery goods. We enjoyed the 2
breakfasts we had here.
Couldn't find a web site. The address is Calle Mesonero Romanos 14. |
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WITH CERVANTES |
CUCHARA de
PALO This is where we had lunch in
Toledo, and it really surprised us. We had no expectations, as we just
wandered in to get a quick lunch during our day tour in Toledo. It is
located right next to (but outside of) the Plaza de Zocodover, which is
a central location in Toledo. There is a statue of Cervantes right
outside the restaurant, which everybody poses for pictures with.
We had a nice lunch here. The place is cozy, painted in bright colors, the service was friendly, the prices reasonable, and the food had the taste of home cooking. We had a nice lunch here. |
STUFFED CHICKEN AT CUCHARA DE PALO |
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MARIBAL'S GUIDES - BY FAR THE BEST FREE ONLINE GUIDES ABOUT SPAIN |
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10 TOP FOOD MARKETS IN MADRID |
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NAKED MADRID
- A BLOG ABOUT MADRID |
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THE GOURMET TRAVELER - 48 HOURS IN MADRID |
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THE BEST WINE AND TAPAS BARS IN MADRID |
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WHERE TO STAY IN MADRID - THE TELEGRAPH |
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WHERE TO STAY IN MADRID - AN INSIDER'S GUIDE |
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TOUR BERNABÈU, THE HOME OF REAL MADRID |
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THE PAELLA COMPANY |
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THE HISTORY OF PAELLA |
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HOW TO COOK THE PERFECT PAELLA |